Sensitive skin: how to build a routine that doesn't sting

On our skin test, a little over a third of people come out sensitive. Their skin stings when a product goes on, turns red after washing, or gets itchy and bumpy when they try something new. Heat makes it worse, and so does the cold, dry air of an air-conditioned office.

If that sounds like you, the most useful thing to know is that sensitive skin usually gets better with less.

What "sensitive" usually means

For most people, sensitive skin means a weak skin barrier. The barrier is the outer layer of the skin, made of cells held together by fats such as ceramides. When it's healthy, it keeps water in and irritants out. When it's damaged, by harsh washing, too many actives, sun or weather, things that should be harmless start to sting.

The good part is that a barrier can be repaired, and the routine below is built to do that.

Some redness isn't a barrier problem at all. Redness that never goes away, flushing with visible small blood vessels, patches that are scaly and very itchy, or swelling after a product are signs of rosacea, eczema or an allergy. Those need a dermatologist, and no cream from a shop replaces that.

A routine with four steps

1. A non-foaming cleanser. CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser is a lotion that doesn't foam and leaves ceramides behind. Lukewarm water, no scrubbing, pat dry.
2. Something soothing. Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner takes the heat out of red skin, and SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule has an ingredient list so short there's very little in it to react to. Use one, not both, to start.
3. A barrier-repair moisturiser. Dr.Althea 345 Relief Cream combines ceramides, peptides and hyaluronic acid. For very dry, flaky sensitive skin, ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream is richer.
4. Sunscreen in the morning. Sun is one of the biggest triggers for redness. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun is known for not stinging, and the SKIN1004 Water-Fit Sun Serum has centella in it. If chemical filters ever sting your skin, a mineral sunscreen is the alternative.

That's the whole routine, morning and night, with the sunscreen swapped for a little more moisturiser at night. Stay with it for four to six weeks before adding anything.

How to patch test

Before a new product goes on your whole face, put a little on a small patch of skin along your jawline or behind your ear, once a day for three to five days. No redness, itching or bumps means you can try it on your face. It doesn't guarantee anything, but it catches most bad reactions before they spread.

And add only one new product at a time, two weeks apart. If something goes wrong, you'll know exactly what did it.

Ingredients that tend to help

Centella asiatica (often called cica), heartleaf, ceramides, panthenol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide at low strength are all generally well tolerated. Snail mucin suits many sensitive faces too.

Ingredients to treat carefully

Fragrance and essential oils are common triggers, so fragrance-free is the safer choice. Strong exfoliating acids, scrubs, high-strength vitamin C, retinol and 10% niacinamide can all be too much for a barrier that's struggling. Alcohol-heavy toners sting. None of these are banned forever. Once your skin has been calm for a couple of months, you can try one, slowly, at a low strength.

If you want to fade dark marks with sensitive skin, alpha arbutin is the gentlest route. We compare the options in niacinamide, tranexamic acid or alpha arbutin.

Small habits that make a difference

Wash with lukewarm water, never hot. Pat your face dry instead of rubbing. Use your hands, not cotton pads or cloths. Keep showers short in winter. And notice what sets your skin off, whether that's spicy food, a hot kitchen, a particular product or stress, because sensitive skin often has a pattern.

We sell the products named here, so weigh our picks with that in mind. If your skin reacts to almost everything, or the redness never fully settles, please see a dermatologist.