How to fade dark spots, and what doesn't work

Which kind of dark spot do you have?

"Dark spots" covers three different things, and they respond differently.

• Acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation): flat brown or dark marks left where a pimple was. They are very common on South Asian skin and are the easiest to fade, usually over two to four months.
• Sun spots: small, flat brown spots on the cheeks, nose and forehead, the places the sun hits most. They build up over years and fade slowly with daily sun protection.
• Melasma: larger, patchy brown areas, often on both cheeks, the upper lip or the forehead, linked to hormones, pregnancy, the pill and heat. It comes back easily, and it is worth seeing a dermatologist rather than treating it alone.

If a spot is raised, growing, bleeding, itchy, or has uneven edges or several colours, do not treat it as a dark spot. See a doctor.

Step one: sunscreen, every single day

This is the step that decides whether everything else works. UV light tells your skin to make more pigment, so every unprotected day darkens the spots again. In Bangladesh the UV index is high almost all year, including on cloudy days.

• Use SPF 50 with PA+++ or PA++++. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics and SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum are both light enough for daily wear in the heat.
• Use enough: about two finger-lengths for the face and neck.
• Reapply before going out again in the afternoon, or after sweating heavily.

Step two: one brightening treatment

Pick one and use it consistently. Starting three at once mostly gives you irritation, and irritation itself causes more dark marks.

• Niacinamide: gentle, suits almost every skin type including sensitive skin, and also helps with oil and the look of pores. Anua Peach 70 Niacin Serum is a good place to start, morning and night.
• Mild exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA): help shed the darkened surface cells faster. COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner two or three evenings a week. Always wear sunscreen the next day.
• Vitamin C, azelaic acid, alpha arbutin: other well-studied options, useful if niacinamide alone is not enough after three months.
• Prescription treatments such as hydroquinone or tretinoin work well but need a dermatologist. Do not buy them loose.

Step three: support the skin barrier

Healthy, calm skin heals marks faster. Keep the rest of your routine simple: a gentle cleanser such as COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, a hydrating layer such as COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence, and a moisturiser.

A simple routine

Morning: gentle cleanser, niacinamide serum, moisturiser, SPF 50.

Evening: cleanse (oil cleanser first if you wore sunscreen), niacinamide serum, moisturiser. Two or three evenings a week, use the AHA/BHA toner after cleansing and before the serum.

How long it takes

Skin renews itself roughly once a month, and fading needs several cycles. With daily sunscreen:

• 4 weeks: skin looks brighter and more even, spots slightly lighter.
• 8 to 12 weeks: acne marks clearly lighter.
• 3 to 6 months: older sun spots lighter. Melasma needs ongoing care.

Winter is the best season to start, because the sun is gentler and your skin tolerates actives better.

What doesn't work, or makes it worse

• Lemon juice, toothpaste, baking soda: they irritate the skin, and irritation leaves more dark marks.
• Unlabelled whitening or fairness creams: some sold loose or without ingredients have been found to contain steroids or mercury. Fast results from a cream with no brand and no ingredient list are a warning, not a bargain.
• Glutathione pills and injections: not something we sell or recommend. Talk to a doctor before taking anything for your skin.
• Picking or squeezing pimples: the single biggest cause of acne marks.
• Scrubbing hard: it does not remove pigment, it only irritates.

The aim is an even tone and fewer marks, not lighter skin.